How To Repair Chinese Black Lacquer Finish
Hullo could someone please describe how to best refinish wood furniture in a black lacquer cease. I encounter so many pieces that take been refinished in a blackness lacquer from the original wood finish with varying results. Almost dealers on Ist dibs will but say "newly refinished" or "restored" without any mention of how exactly they restored or refinished. I recollect information technology is safe to assume that dealers are going the easiest or sometimes the only route past slapping on some black stuff to cover prior impairment. My real point though is, I want to refinish some vintage pieces in a black lacquer, and while having tried in by with pretty good results by merely using india ink and then top-coated with a Deft spray lacquer. I would nevertheless like some feedback from the pro's out at that place. Cheers in accelerate!
Black lacquer
is an opaque cease, typically sprayed, over the appropriate primer, on wood or metal surfaces. This is best accomplished in a facility operated by professionals, employing a spray berth.
A and then-called "ebonized" finish is today virtually identical to a sprayed black lacquer finish. Originally, ebonizing involved staining the woods.
My advice has been to prepare for these finishes by staining wear surfaces -- corners and edges -- with black stain, under the prime coat, so that chipped or worn lacquer will not immediately reveal lighter-colored woods. A black marker volition perform this step quickly and easily.
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That is a practiced tip virtually staining the wear edges. When I was spraying curved plywood the best finish I could get was to undercoat and terminate as normal, steel wool this back (0000) and then use a compatable automtive articulate coat. I'thousand not certain how that would become on solid timber though or if you have access to a compressor.
Test commencement on flake...if in doubt pay someone else to do it. If its a big apartment surface a short nap proffessional roller and an enamel paint (yous can get hardeners) can await good with very careful preperation. I live in the sub-tropics and spray insecticide or burn a citronella candle to discourage the winged little bastards and if you are feeling really fanatical grit everything around you first. Most of all don't panic if something goes wrong, walk abroad and sand it back later.
And if you have a bristles comb it:)
Ha --
good point !
A tack rag is a good thought, too, to remove those last bits of dust before the final coat.
I've used Deft brushable lacquer. It makes a prissy (pleasantly waxy-feeling) articulate coat. But it isn't very good at resisting water. I don't know if the spray material is like in that regard.
aye a tack rag is a good...
yes a tack rag is a good idea, alternatively given that its black a chip of sometime bed sheet wiped over and over and over again until information technology stays white will work too.
If the piece you lot are finishing or restoring has been pulled apart consider painting (spraying is manifestly best for things like chair arms and legs) the $.25 seperately and so regluing, support each department in a frame by tapping a sewing machine needle or similar into the ends. You can record off the areas that will crave gluing with bluish masking taps, the type that auto sprayers apply, information technology leaves little or no remainder but yous tin wipe over with acetone just to make sure. That way you'll also avoid painting over a articulation.
A really high gloss blackness cease is difficult to do well, compared to white it shows up every surface flaw, perhaps a gloss level of about threescore%.
There are other means of getting a very blackness finish, some timbers answer very well to older methods which I'm non too knowledgable on, apparantly timbers that are high in tannins blacken well past using steel wool and vinegar or yous could wait at ammonia fuming...these though probably won't give you a totally opaque cease merely at least you'll
avoid any problems with a chipped surface.
Skillful luck!
Good
stuff.
Fuming and the traditional chemical staining mentioned (using something homemade called "Black Jack") won't produce annihilation equally nighttime equally black, of grade, merely they exercise have their place.
I wonder if anybody always tried singeing with flame ? (Run across adjacent thread. . .!)
.
Some other quick idea, yesterday bought an onetime woodturning mag and a very blackness terminate was described in it using indian ink, never worked with ink and always idea the 'blackness' was indigo, but this terminate looked very black and quite opaque. I'd suggest finishing with wax and buffing, in a hurry but here is a quick link, once again, skilful luck.
Its a technique I'll try myself one solar day.
http://www.egcc.biz/workshop/e/ebonising.htm
Good link Heath.
Merely described and to the point.
I've used all the described methods and various combinations
with experimenting. I always do a exam and with every failure something
is learned.
Black Laquer could be then many things. Traditional, Oriental, the so-chosen
'faked'. The auto trunk finish?
The real criminal offence is the silicone based furniture shine that some antiquarian shops
slather on everything. The horror. I is Liquid Golden.
Non certain what concluding end y'all are looking for only I've stockpiled a listing of
various methods i run beyond from car forums to audio.
Even violin makers.
If someone wants a certain finish i usually send them to Google Image.
Helps to narrow it down a bit before doing samples.
India ink is a adept method i'thou fond of. Trans-tint is in my arsenal.
Black nail smoothen for a tiny chip, etc.
I take saved my Fine Woodworking mags from the 90's and an upshot has
a very well done article. (i'm not home at the moment) It may be on their
website. My internet is fast, boring, gone. Mostly gone.
Please share your successes. The one i've linked is an Audio forum.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=83141&highligh...
ebonizing with India ink
I ebonized this Danish chair with Republic of india ink. The original terminate was damaged and then I stripped it and and so tried the vinegar/steel wool home brew. All it did was plow the walnut an ugly green color with black flecks from tiny bits of steel wool that escaped the cheesecloth straining.
And then and then I tried India ink. And then much easier! I practical information technology with a pocket-size foam brush and information technology covered beautifully and the stuff went amazingly far, like maybe 3 oz. for the entire chair. I did i coat, let it dry for a day or two, then sanded lightly to shine the raised grain, so did a quick 2d coat. That was it.
Information technology did take a few weeks for it to cease shedding pigment when rubbed. In one case the ink seemed stable, I gave it a light coat of beeswax and a skilful buffing.
It is completely opaque while letting the grain show through. Information technology has a soft lustre that is very beautiful and touchable. I couldn't be more pleased with the results. I have a Drexel table whose finish has been destroyed that I programme to strip and ebonize, too.
I think ink and five or six coats of shellac would look interesting. Bister shellac would exist fun to try---would be a very warm blackness, I would remember.
What exercise y'all all think
virtually this lacquer situation? The movers damaged my Diamond and Baratta table that has a high lacquer marine blue terminate. The slice that they "tweaked" is still fastened, but only barely. The insurance company sent out an appraiser who has recommended a PIANO refinisher. Do you recollect he/she will be the advisable person to fix it? I will try to take a clear moving picture of the damaged bit.
1 more affair, in case you call up I am existence too anal, this table weighs almost 800 lbs (the round glass alone is 62" in bore). I only know that when we have to move back to the US from Switzerland in three years that those time to come movers will break off the piece when they accept the table apart simply because information technology is an absolute brute to motion.
Pianos are often finished...
Pianos are often finished with black lacquer and they practice get bumped and dinged when moving even inside a concert hall, so yep, I would say that a piano refinisher is the person you need.
I will watch
my pianoforte guy with an eagle eye and report my findings. Anything you want me to specifically look for regarding his technique?
I don't know anything about...
I don't know anything about lacquer refinishing, sorry. I just happen to be a music conservatory graduate (not a pianist) and have seen many, many blackness lacquered grand and baby yard pianos in varying states of dinged-ness.
I also looked into getting a piano refinished (and thought about doing it myself) and that'south when I found out that there are people who do that every bit opposed to people who merely refinish piece of furniture. That's when I abandoned the idea altogether. It's a specialized chore.
Repairing a chip on black lacquer article of furniture
I bought a black lacquer table in China. I observed the method in which these peices are made - recently reinforced past a trip I just finished to Thailand. The wood is covered with a very black lacquer paste and then allowed to dry for several days. It is then recovered again and once again until the disired thickness/force is obtained. A shine is put on it using some kind of lacquer finsih. Isn't this paste available someplace in the U.S. that can exist used to fill in the chipped area and so a shiny lacquer put over the top.
I understand using Indian ink to match the black color simply that does non fill in the indentation left by the chiped black lacquer base.
I may have missed the point but their method did non seem to be as complicated as I am reading in these messages.
Whatsoever comments someone has would be appreciated.
Repair of black lacquer table
I have seen your message on repairing the black lacquer table. I have a similar state of affairs. Tin can you tell me what y'all take done to set up your trouble. I am merely getting started at trying to solve a crack and a flake on a black lacquer table I got in China.
Bob
Source: https://designaddict.com/community/repair/best-black-lacquer-technic14793/
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